Il Pellicano Chef Michelino Gioia shares his menu for the big feast
If Christmas Eve dinner is a delicate mix of light fare – fish and seafood – and indulgent treats – lots and lots of panettone – Christmas lunch in Italy is all about carb-feasting, meat-eating, and putting on a real show of a banquet.
The meal usually starts around midday and lasts well into the evening, with breaks in between to open presents, play a board game or two, and maybe, just maybe, take a walk around the block to stretch your legs and prepare for a second round of food – although it’s also perfectly acceptable to stay indoors all day instead.
The dishes on the menu follow strict traditions, which vary from region to region. Tortellini in brodo are an Emilia-Romagna must, while Campania prefers a hefty pasta bake. Marche locals will serve cappelletti (similar to tortellini), while in Sicily you might find crispelle (fried dough) stuffed with anchovies or ricotta, and fried baccala (cod) as a main.
Regardless, the gastronomic affair is one to be enjoyed wholeheartedly, and always with your loved ones.
Of course, it helps if one of those loved ones happens to be a chef, like Michelino Gioia of Hotel Il Pellicano. A Christmas enthusiast, Gioia loves to put together a fanciful Christmas menu for his family because, as he’ll tell you, “Christmas lunch is the most joyful of meals, and going all out for it is part of the fun.”
We asked him to share his dreamy take on the yuletide celebration, from starters to dessert. What we got is a blend of Il Pellicano and his own traditions, with a focus on locally sourced ingredients – in this case those of the Tuscan coast, his adopted home.
Ready to dig in?
START WITH
Abundance is the word of the day at Christmas, and Goia likes to reflect that in a dual choice of starters: Orbetello eel with fennel, mixed salad and foie gras; and Tuscan chicken livers with a spiced sauce. “Opening the meal with two dishes speaks of a special occasion and having different options on the table means satisfying every palate,” he says. “The Orbetello eel is similar to capitone (the female of the eel), which is a typical fish we eat in Campania on Christmas Eve. I like proposing it on the 25th because not everyone might be in the mood for meat just yet.” Also, eating capitone is supposed to bring good luck, as the fish resembles the snake that tempted Eve in the Garden of Eden.
How to
Add a touch of festive cheer to your Christmas lunch dishes by using red berries as well as decorative elements. Better yet, opt for a festive table setting, from candle holders to dinner ware.
The primo
Or shall we say primi. Just like with the appetisers, Gioia likes to spice things up with two different pastas on Christmas Day. The first should reflect tradition, “because some things should always stay the same,” he says. For him, that means a classic tortello in a double-boiled chicken broth, served with fresh white truffle shavings, as Christmas calls for a little extravagance.
The second, on the other hand, should be a departure from the rulebook, and play with the ingredients of the territory you’re in, to create something magic. The crispy potato gnocchi with parsley, clams and sea urchins Gioia serves at Il Pellicano is a great example of that, as it uses products that come straight from the Tyrrhenian Sea. “Christmas is about pleasure, fun, joy. Making something that’s as visually inspiring as these gnocchi is a great way to do things differently, and please the eye as much as the belly.”
How to
For a refreshingly creative display, layer objects and natural elements like heaping green apples, limes and pinecones in a bowl or on a plinth across the table. Better yet, use Taf Ricami’s gorgeous, fruit-themed cocktail napkins as place cards for your guests.
TO FOLLOW
“Say what you may, but Christmas lunch calls for a luscious meat dish,” Gioia says. His favourite? Cinta Senese pork with Chianti sauce. “Perfectly crispy on top and melt-in-your-mouth tender inside, this is Christmas in a dish,” he says. Add a jolt of colour by way of vegetables or decorative touches around the plate, and you’re good to go.
How to
Make sure to have extra virgin olive oil and IGP balsamic vinegar on the table for everyone to use. It’s a BuonISSIMO way to make any dish – or just plain bread – taste better than ever.
End on a sweet note
Gioia’s Christmas lunch always ends with a perfect trio of desserts: nougat, dried fruit like figs and dates, and panettone.
“We swear by torrone di San Marco, a crunchy, chocolate-covered delicacy from Campania that’s made by putting honey and sugar in a 80° hot torroniera.,” he says. “And then of course, panettone.”
How to
He suggests putting the panettone on a warm radiator as you approach the end of the meal to warm it up, and whipping up some creme anglaise to spread on top if you want to feel extra decadent. “Panettone has to be served at room temperature, so warming it up is recommended,” he explains. “It’s the simplest way to bring all the flavours out.”
