- BY ISSIMO
- August 29, 2024
According to Elisa Sesti, being a winemaker requires having the nose, the passion, and the physical dedication with both feet ‘on the ground’ in the vineyard. The second-generation winemaker and co-director of Cantina Sesti oversees the full circle of operations on her family’s vineyard in the breathtaking region of Montalcino, Siena.
With her intuitive approach to winemaking based on a deep respect for the geographical location and geological conditions of the estate, Elisa has developed the vineyard’s world-renowned reputation for producing balanced and expressive wines. We sat down with Elisa to discuss her dynamic hands-on approach across all aspects of the vineyard, and how the role of the winemaker continues to evolve.
Can you tell us about the history of your family’s business, Cantina Sesti, and how it has evolved over the years?
My parents bought the estate in the early 70s. It was an abandoned hamlet on the southern slopes of Montalcino. My father is a historian of ancient mythology, and he has always had a fascinating relationship with wine – not just from a mythological perspective, but also in the context of studying the solar and lunar calendars through time, and therefore the birth of agriculture.
I was born here on the estate and I’ve grown into the wine world through my upbringing here. In the few pictures there are of my childhood I’m crushing grapes, or I’m in the vineyard. From a very young age, my father always took me around when he met the local contadini (the farmers who maintained the grape vines) in our area, so I came to know them as I grew up.
I went on to study architecture, and then attended the Sorbonne in Paris to study French literature for a while. I then did a theatre design degree, specialising in costume, stage and lighting. However, I realised that working in the cantina and having another career ongoing was not a possibility for me. I was never asked to come and make wine, and it wasn’t something my parents expected of me. It’s just that I felt this enduring attraction to the vineyard. So it was very much my choice to return here and make this my focus and full-time profession.
What is your current role in Cantina Sesti?
In 1999 I decided to focus my career on winemaking and working on the vineyards here. I really wanted to be ‘hands-on’ here – on the tractor, in the cellar, and so on. The rest is history. I stayed on and I’ve been making wine with my father since then.
In 2004 I took over more of the operations and business side of the estate, and I did my first solo vintage without my father in 2010. Now I run the entire estate – overseeing everything from the making of the wine, to decisions made in the vineyard, to international sales, tastings, and much more. It’s a bit like a one-woman show, but I wouldn’t have it any other way. I like to have the ‘full circle’ experience of everything. In fact, I’m somewhat rooted to the vines here. Over the decades I have established this clear signature of Cantina Sesti and what it represents, both in Italy and abroad.
What are some of your earliest and most vivid memories of wine?
I’ve grown up following a generation which is unfortunately dying out – the contadini, which I consider to be the ‘artists’ of farming. They have maintained these grape varieties through wars, and climate change for centuries. I really admire these people – I found their approach to looking after the vines most interesting, and I learnt so much from observing them and talking to them when I was younger. While their wines might not have been considered the finest or most sophisticated, they took a range of diverse ingredients and used their extensive knowledge to try and achieve absolute balance and elegance.
On the other hand, I’ve had the pleasure of tasting some fantastic wines from the vintages of private cellars in Burgundy, for example. So I can see what 600 years of export in France tastes like. So the combination of these observations and sensory experiences has shaped my ‘palette’ with which I now ‘paint’ my own expressions.
With wine, I learnt early on that the one thing you’re given is your soil and your microclimate. Being able to work with that is the real art. I believe my job is to bring out the best expression of any vintage coming out of Montalcino in this period.
Can you tell us more about the geographical location of Cantina Sesti, and what makes this a unique place to live and work?
Cantina Sesti is actually on an archaeological site called Argiano, with layers of Etruscan, Roman and Medieval history on this land. We also have a Medieval castle here called Castello di Argiano. It’s a site where ancient cultures kept returning throughout the centuries because it was sacred land, and essential for survival. We are lucky to be at an exceptional geological and geographical location. There is good earth, good air and good water here.
What aspect of your job do you find most rewarding?
I have two parameters – one is making wine, and the other is the business side of running the estate. This includes working with traders, hosting private collectors, and welcoming clients for tastings, lunches and special events. I am also overseeing the restoration of Castello di Argiano too. My father also ran an opera company, so I often welcome people from the worlds of opera, music, literature and film to the estate. People say it’s a great place to have a kind of artistic retreat.
Of course, I also work with many chefs. We have kitchens here and I place a lot of emphasis on food. I have always believed that the table is one of the most interesting places to sit; the table has layers of cultural meaning, and it’s a place to exchange ideas and share pleasure too.
What makes a ‘perfect’ wine in your opinion?
Balance. I look for balance in a wine – a balance of colour, acidity, extraction and expression. I also think it’s important that the characteristics of the vineyard can express themselves in any vintage of wine, which includes things like its geological and geographical conditions.
“With wine, I learnt early on that the one thing you’re given is your soil and your microclimate. Being able to work with that is the real art.”
In your opinion, how has the role of the winemaker changed in more recent times?
Traditionally the winemaker made the wine and you hardly ever met them. Now, the winemaker is very present, and they have become the ‘voice’ of the winery. We’re asked to be everywhere – from meetings, to presentations, to events all over the country. This has its benefits, it means we have to leave the vineyards which can be difficult because it’s an enormous job to run them ‘full circle.’ We prefer it if people visit so we can stay on the estate!
Which of Cantina Sesti’s wines would you recommend for the fall season?
After the heat of the summer, your body starts to acclimatise to the change of season, and so does your palette. You might want to open up a bottle of Rosso di Montalcino, which is a wonderful wine and a stepping stone into Sangiovese wines, which is the variety we produce here. The Rosso di Montalcino 2022 is fantastic.
As autumn progresses, I would follow that with a Brunello di Montalcino. I love the 2018 vintage, and I always look forward to opening this. You can also explore older Brunello vintages too.
For a real treat, I would suggest a Brunello Riserva like our ‘Phenomena.’ This name comes from the Greek word ‘phenomena’ – meaning a natural occurrence or astronomical phenomenon. We age this wine for five years on oak, and one year in the bottle – so six years in total. It has a great balance to it. I’m now releasing the 2018 vintage, which was dedicated to the most important lunar eclipse of the 21st century, which was a supermoon, a blood moon and a blue moon (which last happened in 1984). This wine will have an enormous journey ahead of it, and I always love to open a bottle.
“I think Italy is entering into a truly exciting era because we are finally celebrating how unique and exceptional our wine industry is. We have more grape varieties than any country in the world, and such diverse geographies.”
Do you think we will continue to see women take an active role in Italy’s wine industry as we are seeing today?
Absolutely, without question. When I started working on the vineyard in 1999 I was the only female at all the industry events, the tastings, the dinners, and the meetings. I remember going to get a tyre for the tractor, for example, and people would look over my shoulder to see where the man was. It’s not that they thought I was incapable, it’s just that there was a cultural perception that women didn’t work in the vineyards in such a ‘hands-on’ way.
From what I see, women from all walks of life are taking on new projects across the wine industry – running estates and exploring new niches in the extraordinary world of wine which is constantly developing and evolving.
I think Italy is entering into a truly exciting era because we are finally celebrating how unique and exceptional our wine industry is here. We have more grape varieties than any country in the world, and such diverse geographies. From the Alps to Mount Etna, a younger generation of winemakers are exploring new horizons. Women are great communicators, and I think they absolutely feel comfortable making their mark in this industry.
I do believe, however, that wine is not made by women or men. Wine is made by winemakers. I don’t think a separation really exists. You must have the nose, you must have the passion, and you must have your feet on the ground.
