Uncovering Italy’s Superlatives in people, places and things

A Day In The Life Part II by Sylvain Deleuze

Sylvain Deleuze, founder of Les Belles Heures, continues the three-part imaginary voyage this time from the Tuscan coast to the deep blue waters of Ishchia.

After a refined journey from the pebbled streets of Roma to its breezy seaside up to the pristine coves of Porto Ercole, we’re back to our journey along the coasts of Italy, down south this time.

Waking up at Il Pellicano is something like a privilege that immediately makes you forget about the negronis you might have had the night before. The sun already strikes the persiane of your room with an inviting light, and you can hear the distant rumor of the early guests chiacchierando around the sea water pool.

The view from the room is epic. L’Isolotto, right in front of us, seems like a giant whale resting in the bay while the Tuscan coastline unwinds its smooth hills and flat beaches in the distance. The first espresso of the day is taken on the private terrace as it should be.

Photo courtesy of Cerruti + Draime
Photo courtesy of Cerruti + Draime

On our way to the bar for the second espresso of the day, we come across a busy Marie-Louise focused on sorting out a tiny detail in table’s dressing that caught her eye and, naturally, requires action. We exchange a few words in Italian, have a laugh and head to the bar. Wearing high waisted pleated trousers, and his Senigallia, 15h32 tucked in a knitted polo shirt, Gerardo Cavaliere of Giuliva Heritage is already sipping his espresso at the counter. After cheerful greetings follows a quite passionate conversation about the proper way to serve Neapolitan coffee, how to wear a scarf depending on your outfit and our what are our next, upcoming projects for the months ahead. Having ourselves chosen to wear a corduroy, pale blue shirt over a simple white tee and a Mezzatorre, 18h12 60cm scarf, we head to the pool with Gerardo arguing about the best cacio e pepe in Roma.

The rest of the morning goes as smoothly as it can go, the tranquility of it all being only disturbed by the regular walks down to the private beach for a dive into the crystal clear waters bathing the coast. Gathering our stuff, switching our corduroy shirt for a blue workwear jacket, and tucking our Mezzatorre, 18h12 in our jacket in preparation for what’s coming, we step down to the dock and embark on a speed boat for a ride south to relentlessly slow and chic Ponza.

Photo courtesy of Ryan Neeven

Landing on the colorful, picturesque fishing port we untie our Mezzatorre, 18h12 scarf to give some space to our neck and sit at the most authentic local trattoria for pasta con granseola and a sublime mix di pesce crudo freschissimo paired with the most delicious vino bianco della casa. We wrap things up with a caffe’ corretto and set sail south down to heavenly Ischia, and the Mezzatorre.

Arriving at Mezzatorre from the sea is something quite unique. From a distance, we first distinguish the white battlements on top of its unfinished Aragonese 16th-century terracotta watchtower immersed in the lush vegetation of its pine wooded park, also hosting La Colombaia, once home to Italian legendary director Luchino Visconti. Complete the picture with a palette of blue shades that get clearer and clearer as we get closer to the coast and you got the whole picture.

Everything starts with a few refreshments by the pool overlooking the Gulf of Naples. A few dives later, we head up to La Baia for cocktails and an exquisite dinner just after having switched our workwear jacket for something more evening.

Inaugurated with a stunning lemon skin salad with salt, fresh mint and olive oil the dinner goes on with the perfect, most simple spaghetti al pomodoro and a grilled orata sprinkled with a splash of lemon and olive oil. Gelato al pistacchio and an espresso wrap things up and prepare the palate for a digestive, talkative negroni at the bar.

Yolanda and husband Matt just arrived from an epic Fiat Uno Italian road trip and it’s in between rounds of negronis that they tell us all about their epic journey and the making of the next issues of their respective publications Yolo Journal and WM Brown Magazine. Slowly rising into the sky, the moon lights the Gulf with a crisp yellow light while we get lively on how much this place is the most essential expression of la dolce vita.

For more sartorial adventure, please visit ISSIMO x Les Belles Heures.


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