- BY ISSIMO
- October 23, 2024
Ivrea – ever heard of it? Tucked away in Piemonte, northeast of Torino, the ‘Industrial City of the 20th Century’ might not be top of most people’s travel lists for northern Italy – but it shouldn’t be overlooked! Ivrea has glimpses of heritage charm and cultural traditions just like all Italian cities, but its intrigue lies equally in its architecture, public spaces and cultural heritage reflecting its industrial boom in the second half of the 20th century.
If there’s one name you need to know before visiting Ivrea, it’s Olivetti. Adriano Olivetti, an engineer, politician and industrialist (the son of Camillo Olivetti who founded Italy’s first typewriter factory) transformed the city into a hub of industrial expansion and social experimentation from the 1930s onwards. It’s thanks to him that Ivrea underwent an incredible period of modernisation, which saw it become one of Italy’s most important sites for a new generation of architecture, design and visionary ideas. That’s why it’s officially a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Curious? Whether you’re visiting to explore Ivrea’s industrial heart, hike the glorious surrounding countryside, or savour the comforting flavours of local Piemontese cuisine, the city has something for everyone, at every turn. Read on to discover more!
Getting there
Situated on the road leading to the Aosta Valley, Ivrea is an hour’s drive north east of Torino, and about a two-hours train ride from Milan. If Torino is your base, visiting Ivrea is an easy day trip.
see
Before we dive into Ivrea’s modern era, let’s start with its medieval soul, which defines the charm of its historical centre. Castello di Ivrea, an important meeting point in the centre of the city, is a towering 14th-century wonder built by the Savoy family complete with grand red-brick turrets. There’s also the immaculate Chiesa di San Bernardino and Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta with their vibrant internal frescoes and the Torre del Santo Stefano, a Romanesque bell tower that reveals the city’s lost history.
Fast forward to the 20th century, where imposing industrial architecture, community utility buildings and public spaces form the city’s new industrial heart. This is where ‘Olivetti’ means everything – the trailblazing typewriter company that put the city on the world map as a cradle of technological innovation. At the Laboratorio Museo Tecnologicamente, explore the company’s design, social and cultural legacy with a journey through vintage artefacts including original typewriters, calculators, and the first desktop computers, which seem more like ‘ColtISSIMO’ design objects rather than office utilities. You can also visit the iconic ‘Red Brick Factory’ built in 1908 where the company’s first typewriters were made at Olivetti’s former headquarters.
The Museum of Modern Architecture (an open-air museum showcasing Olivetti’s architectural legacy) is a must for design and culture buffs who want to immerse themselves in the city’s industrial core. Spanning a two-kilometre stretch along Via Jervis, this architectural ‘walk’ takes visitors through Adriano Olivetti’s social and urban planning projects as seen in various offices, factories, public spaces and workers’ housing, including the development of production sites and his socially-focused ‘Community’ project.
DO
A little citrus mayhem, anyone? If you happen to visit in February, prepare yourself to experience one of Italy’s most bizarre cultural festivals, the Carnevale d’Ivrea, more commonly known as the Battle of the Oranges. This epic ‘food fight’ happens every year when crowds of locals take to the historic centre and hurl cratefulls of oranges at each other in a ritual reflecting ancient neighbourhood rivalries. Why? All in the name of tradition, of course! This three-day event dates back to the Middle Ages, and although its specific origins are vague, it’s believed the oranges represent decapitated heads from an ancient folk story. Even if you watch the event unfold from the safety of a balcony or cafe window, be careful, nobody is guaranteed safety in the chaos!
If you prefer something a little more civilised and peaceful, take a hike or a cycle through the foothills of the Alps. There are several superb walking trails to explore, like the one from Ivrea’s Lake Sirio to Lake Pistono, and the Via Francigena, a famous route that runs along the bottom of the Ivrea Greenhouse and leads through the surrounding countryside, where vineyards and rolling hills provide an experience of nature at its purest.
FUN FACTS
- Long before Ivrea was occupied by the Romans, it was a significant settlement of a Celtic tribe who established a fortified village. Traces of their influence remain in local customs and place names.
- The ‘Industrial City of Ivrea’, as it is formally known, was initially founded by Camillo Olivetti, Adriano’s father, in 1908.
- Ivrea was inscribed as the ‘Industrial City of the 20th Century’ by UNESCO in 2018, with a total of 19 sites listed.
- Adriano Olivetti’s ‘social experiment’ was based on a vision to transform Ivrea into a utopian industrial society, where his factories were designed with open spaces and green areas to enhance workers’ well-being.
eat
Ivrea offers an authentic taste of the traditional Piemontese kitchen, with quaint pasticcerias and osterias using the finest local products from the surrounding region.
For a fine dining experience, the Michelin-star La Mugnaia (Via Arduino) restaurant serves a special selection of degustation menus featuring elegant meat, fish and vegetable dishes you might not get the chance to taste every day. Be sure to try the Tortino di alici con baccalà mantecato for antipasti, and the Risotto al sake con crudo di gamberi e ‘nduja for primi.
For something a little more casual and traditional, you can’t go past Trattoria San Giovanni (Corso Vercelli). This little trattoria serves authentic, home-style specialities made with the freshest Piemontese ingredients, including some of the most delicious funghi porcini you’ve ever eaten – we love the Flan di funghi porcini and the gnocchi! This is also the place to order a plate of traditional Raviolini del Plin from Piemonte. These small, meat-filled pasta parcels are perfectly paired with a glass of local Barbera or Nebbiolo wine. BuonISSIMO! For dessert, be sure to try the silky smooth Panna cotta al cacao.
For a caffè and something sweet to fuel your day of exploring, stop in at Pasticceria Maghi Infarinati (Corso Botta) or Panificio Bonelli di Bonelli Luca (Corso Massimo d’Azeglio) to try the traditional Torcetti di Ivrea. These crunchy, sugar-coated twists make great snacks, and are ideal for eating while sitting in a piazza and absorbing the city’s atmosphere.
La Mugnaia
Via Arduino, 53, 10015 Ivrea TO
Trattoria San Giovanni
Corso Vercelli, 45, 10015 Ivrea TO
Pasticceria Maghi Infarinati
Corso Botta, 30, 10015 Ivrea TO
Panificio Bonelli di Bonelli Luca
Corso Massimo D’Azeglio, 18, 10015 Ivrea TO