- BY ISSIMO
- April 7, 2025
In the heart of Campania, Benevento is a little-known gem that begs to be discovered. The city is often described as an open-air museum, thanks to its outstanding Roman monuments and Longobard World Heritage Site. But it’s also a place where culinary delights tantalise the palate, and the surrounding nature beguiles visitors just as much as its time-honoured landmarks do. Add to that the fact it’s a short drive away from one of our favourite wineries – Feudi di San Gregorio in Irpinia – and you’ve got yourself more than enough reasons to visit.
Ready to explore?
see
Start your journey at the Arch of Trajan, an imposing structure erected in 114 AD to honour Emperor Trajan. Adorned with intricate bas-reliefs depicting the emperor’s exploits, the sights stands as a testament to Roman architectural prowess, and it’s one of Benevento’s must-sees.
A short stroll away lies the Church of Santa Sofia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011. Constructed around 760 AD, this Lombard edifice captivates with its unique circular design and the remnants of Byzantine frescoes that whisper tales of bygone eras, so enter and spend some time taking it all in. Among the many highlights is the cloister, which offers a epertoire of realistic and fantastic images spanning monstrous figures and crusaders, rural works and Christological icons – each one dripping with fascinating symbolism.
Next up is of course the Roman Theatre, of the largest and best preserved ancient theatres to still exist today. Dating back to the 2nd century, it was once echoed with the sounds of performances, and now offers a glimpse into the city’s vibrant cultural life both past and present, as concerts and shows continue to be held regularly on its stage.
Keen to explore more? Then consider Benevento’s two main museums: Museo del Sannio, which covers the city’s history, from the ancient Samnites to the Roman and Lombard periods; and the Janua Museum, dedicated to the local folklore of Benevento, particularly its association with legends of witches (“Janare”).
Last but not least, wrap up the day by walking through the historic center, a maze of narrow streets, historic buildings, and small piazzas.
do
Now that you’ve got all of Benevento’s history under your belt, it’s time to look further afield. Our favourite suggestion? Rent a car and visit a local winery – the Sannio region is known for its Aglianico and Falanghina wines, and many wineries offer tastings and tours. Better yet, drive 45 minutes to Irpinia, another fascinating cultural region of southern Italy and stop by Feudi di San Gregorio, a surprising winery in the area.
Alternatively (or in addition!) plan a day trip to Cusano Mutri, a mountain village known for its annual Porcini Mushroom Festival in the fall, showcasing regional food specialties; or hike in the Taburno-Camposauro Regional Park, which offers scenic trails, panoramic views, and a chance to experience the rural landscapes of the Sannio region.
eat
Where to begin! Try the rustic Locanda Scialapopolo for its homemade pasta and traditional Campanian dishes like cardone, a rich chicken and cardoons soup featuring tiny veal meatballs,egg stracciatella and grated cheese that is typical of the Christmas period but here it’s served all-year round. Indulge in handcrafted torrone, a local nougat made with honey and nuts, at Pasticceria Maria Rosa, and cheer to Benevento at Paradiso 1973, a great family-run enoteca for wine tasting and local cheese and charcuterie platters.
Four Sannio Region
Specialties to Try
Besides cardone, there’s lots to try at the table on a trip to Benevento. Here are four local dishes you can’t miss:
Cazzarielli in Cassuola – Small, handmade pasta dumplings made from just flour and water, without potatoes. They are traditionally served with a tomato or mixed vegetable sauce or paired with black-eyed peas (locally known as occhietelli).
Fiavole – A rustic Easter pastry found across southern Italy under different names. These small, ravioli-shaped treats are made with a thin dough of flour and lard and filled with a savory mix of eggs and cheese. Baked until golden, they develop a signature crack on top, revealing a “tear” of melted filling.
Mugniatiello – The Sannio version of Puglia’s gnummarieddo, this lamb offal roll is seasoned with lard, garlic, parsley, and chili pepper (though variations exist). Wrapped in lamb intestines, it is traditionally cooked over an open flame for a smoky, rich flavour.
Pizzo Panaro – A simple sponge cake with a sugar glaze and colourful sprinkles, historically gifted to children on Palm Sunday. Round like a pizza, it was carried in a wicker basket (panaro) alongside the family’s bread.
