- BY ISSIMO
- May 21, 2024
Legend has it that the L’Arcipelago Toscano came into existence after the goddess Venus emerged from the Tyrrhenian Sea and dropped seven pearls from her necklace along the coastline. Talk about divine! Welcome to the Tuscan Archipelago, an idyllic stretch of seven islands between the Ligurian and Tyrrhenian Sea that are literally jewels of the Tuscan coastline, right in our ‘backyard’ at Hotel Il Pellicano.
Elba, Giglio, Capraia, Montecristo, Pianosa, Giannutri and Gorgona each boast their own unique land and seascapes, vegetation, wildlife and special characteristics, and they are some of Italy’s best kept secrets when it comes to sublime natural discoveries. Together they form a precious and highly protected coastal zone known as the Tuscan Archipelago National Park.
Getting there
While the seven islands can all be visited throughout the year, some are easier to access than others due to proximity, transport and required visiting permissions. We suggest planning your journey carefully (and well in advance), and to even consider a little island hopping while you’re out there.
We’re lucky that our home in Monte Argentario is the perfect base from which to set out for a voyage of L’Arcipelago Toscano, with ferries leaving from Monte Argentario and other port-cities along the Tuscan coastline. Departing from the Port of Piombo, you can reach Elba in one hour by ferry, and also Montecristo after that. From Elba, it’s a short boat ride over to Pianosa (although you can’t access the island without an authorised guide).
You can arrive at Giglio and Giannutri by ferry from Porto Santo Stefano (Monte Argentario), while Capraia and Gorgona can be reached from the port of Livorno. Don’t forget that reservations are required well in advance to visit Gorgona.
Elba is the largest and most-visited island in the Arcipelago Toscano, with a captivating blend of natural wonder and rich history. Stroll around the bustling historic Portoferraio where shops, museums and architecture will immerse you in local culture, and then take a walk up to Madonna del Monte to enjoy spectacular views of the entire Tuscan Archipelago in undisturbed natural surrounds. When it’s time to relax, check out Elba’s immaculate beaches, most of which are walking distance from Portoferraio, including the pebbled Ghiaie Beach, Padulella Beach and Biodola Beach with its pristine golden sand.
In Giglio (the second-largest island) be sure to explore the 16th century Torre del Saraceno and the nearby Cove of Saraceno, as well as taking a walk up to discover the medieval hilltop village of Giglio Castello where you’ll find the Rocca Pisana castle. There are also ancient ruins to be discovered on Giannutri (the southernmost island), where you’ll find a 2nd century AD Roman villa built by the ancient trading family, Domizi Enobarbi. In Pianosa, venture through the mysterious Christian Catacombs dating back to 3rd century AD, and the Roman Bagno di Agrippa (Agrippa’s Baths) in the ruins of the ancient imperial villa of Postumus Agrippa located in front of Cala Giovanna beach.
FUN FACTS
- The island of Montecristo was made famous by French author Alexander Dumas’ world-famous 1844 adventure novel ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’.
- Capraia is a volcanic island, the only one of its kind in the Tuscan Archipelago.
- Watch out for the seagulls and other hungry birds on Giannutri! They favour the island for nesting at particular times during the year.
- Pianosa is home to the Casa dell’Agronomo, a public museum of history and agriculture that is one of the island’s most valuable and architecturally intriguing buildings.
Giglio and Giannutri are particularly renowned for their crystal-clear waters that are a diver’s paradise. Giannutri’s Punta San Francesco is among popular spots for underwater encounters with the archipelago’s protected marine kingdom. In Giannutri, we also suggest taking a boat ride past the Cala di Notte coves and the breathtaking Grottoni cliffs, which are both dramatic natural wonders. If you prefer to stay on land, a hike up to the island’s highest point at Poggio di Capel Rosso is a must, where you’ll discover sweeping panoramic views of the archipelago.
You’ll immediately be captivated by Capraia’s picturesque charm as you make your way from the island’s port through the narrow streets and quaint coloured houses of its historic village. You can take a ferry tour around the island, as well as discover it more intimately via the hiking trails from one side of the island to the other. You’ll probably also come across some of Capraia’s historic churches on your explorations too, which include The Church of the Assumption and The Convent Church of Sant’Antonio.
While the islands of Gorgona and Montecristo might not be as easily accessible as the others (reservation times for visits can be up to a year long due to strict restrictions!) they both offer an abundance of natural wonders and historical treasures which include pristine bays, coves and protected waters that are a paradise for swimming and diving. Don’t miss the sacred Cave of San Mamiliano and nearby monastery on the island of Montecristo.
Elban cuisine is predominantly based on agricultural traditions, with viticulture also a big part of the island’s heritage and identity.
Stop in for lunch at any authentic osteria on the island and you’ll find typical dishes combining the freshest produce from the land and sea such as stuffed mussels, risotto with squid ink, pappardelle with mushrooms and Elba’s famous ‘Penne in Barca’ which is a creamier and more luxe take on the classic Spaghetti alle vongole.
It’s fish, fish and more fish in Capraia, with locally-caught squid an island specialty that’s eaten stuffed, grilled and fried. The island’s climate and terrain also mean it has a thriving viticulture industry, with Capraia Chianti Classico among some of the finest locally produced wines. Culinary delights on Giglio include ‘Pesce in scaveccio,’ an appetiser of fried fish served with an aromatic raisin-infused sauce, traditional rabbit dishes like ‘Coniglio alla cacciatora,’ and a slice of panficato, a dense sweet bread made with figs, nuts and fruit.
Book a table at:
OSTERIA MACAFAME
Via Giosuè Carducci, 96
57037 Portoferraio LI
OSTERIA PEPENERO
Via Dell’Amore, 48
57037 Portoferraio LI
Ristorante Bagni La Padulella
Viale Luigi Einaudi, 16
57037 Padulella Beach LI
Whether you’re venturing out to the islands for a day trip, or you plan to stay and explore them intimately, we suggest packing light! Bring only the essentials and your spirit of discovery. Here’s what we’re taking with us on our voyage through L’Arcipelago Toscano…
