Uncovering Italy’s Superlatives in people, places and things

There’s no place like Corte della Maestà

This ancient retreat is a treasure trove of history, art and culture in Civita di Bagnoregio.

veduta bagnoregio corte della maestà viterbo lazio

Corte della Maestà is not a hotel, but the beginning of a journey,” says owner Cristiana Meslis. After several visits to this immaculate ancient residence and guesthouse in the heart of the hilltop town of Civita di Bagnoregio, we have to say we agree! Corte della Maesta is a world unto itself. It’s one of those rare places on earth where you can truly escape reality and savour the silence of slow mornings, the pristine beauty of nature, and centuries of history waiting to be discovered in this remarkable town accessible only by footbridge (…you’ve seen the photos, no doubt!).

Paolo Crepet and Cristiana Melis, owners of Corte della Maestà, have curated a one-of-a-kind experience that extends far beyond hospitality. This ancient palace has been transformed into a fairytale escape filled with culture, art and history, with no detail left unturned. Read on to discover exclusive insights from Paolo and Cristiana, and discover why this unforgettable retreat in Civita di Bagnoregio should be at the top of your travel list.

Stepping into a treasure trove

Paolo and Cristiana opened Corte della Maestà as a guest house in 2013, and they welcome guests to the majestic ‘Corte’ as if it were their own home. That’s because it is! The couple live in the grand ‘Borgo’ – a former Archbishop’s Palace – which they restored and furnished with an immaculate collection of art, design and antique artefacts reflecting their personal passion for art, culture and historical discoveries.

The same can be said for the nearby ‘Corte’, which comprises four guest rooms furnished with a captivating mix of antique decor reflecting important historical themes and narratives: La Badessa (a homage to Stendhal’s ‘The Abbess Of Castro’), La Sonnambula (in honour of Vincenzo Belli and Italian opera traditions), La Scrittrice (inspired by Virginia Woolf’s London home) and La Intrusa (which offers a view of the house where Argentine poet Rodolfo Wilcock lived).

“As a concept, I think one of the most intriguing aspects of the property is its homely atmosphere that invites guests to discover the artwork from our private collection,” says Cristiana. From ceiling to floor, every piece of art, furniture and decor in the property has its own story. The eclectic collection has been personally sourced and selected by Paolo and Cristiana from all over Italy, reflecting the couple’s passion for art and culture not as a job or a hobby, but as a way of life.

Beyond the suites, the retreat’s magic also extends to its glorious kitchen with high ceilings and a joyful atmosphere, the Bishop Winery created by the Bishop Ferdinando of Castillo in the 16th century, a blissful spa and the enchanting Court Garden. This paradise is filled with fragrant blooms, centuries-old olive and fig trees and even the remnants of ancient Roman columns. Honestly, there are few places on earth where we would rather have breakfast!

Civita di Bagnoregio: A poetic marvel in Central Italy

Civita di Bagnoregio Details Lazio

“I fell in love with Civita for the soft sounds of footsteps, for the power of the wind when it comes down to ruffle the chestnut trees at the bottom of the valley and then rises again fresh and bold as winter prefers.” Few people capture the poetic beauty of Civita di Bagnoregio quite like Paolo, who was instantly captivated by the hilltop village from the moment he first set foot through its stone arch entrance in 1994.

Just imagine…a medieval town built on a hilltop, accessible only by foot, with no cars or congestion. That’s our idea of heaven! An ancient marvel in the province of Viterbo, Civita di Bagnoregio dates back to Etruscan times, and it has long been a treasured retreat for nobility, clergy and the wealthy throughout history. Approaching Civita via the only pedestrian footbridge feels like entering a floating ‘micro-city’, and its atmosphere is almost impossible to capture in words.

Slow living at Civita di Bagnoregio

“The pedestrian bridge is the only way to reach the town. As you cross it, you enter a state of mind where you disconnect with the hustle and bustle of daily life and reconnect with a state of slow living once you cross the archway into the village,” says Cristiana.

“It’s a magical place for me, and the real magic begins at sunset, when the town’s few residents and many cats remain after the day’s tourists have gone. It’s an enchanted micro-world.”

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