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ISSIMO x Women in Wine: Federica Boffa

November 13, 2025

ISSIMO x Women in Wine: Federica Boffa

The Pio Cesare heir talks tradition, innovation and identity

At just 23 years old, Federica Boffa stepped into the fifth generation at the helm of Pio Cesare, the historic Barolo and Barbaresco house founded in 1881. Raised among the vines of Alba and steeped in decades of family tradition, she now leads the estate into its next chapter – blending heritage with innovation, and youth with legacy. Under her guidance, Pio Cesare not only honours its storied past but actively embraces the future: shortening aging for more accessible wines, championing native varietals like Timorasso, and expanding its cellar with sustainability at the core.

Federica’s leadership is quietly formidable, grounded in respect for terroir and tradition, yet propelled by a modern sensibility and a commitment to inclusivity. In an industry still famed for its male-dominated boardrooms, she serves as an example of the new generation of women shaping Italian wine. For ISSIMO x Women in Wine, we speak with Federica about carrying a legacy, navigating climate change in the vineyards, and crafting wines – and an identity – that feel of their time.

You took over Pio Cesare at just 23, following the passing of your father. What was the biggest challenge you faced stepping into such a legacy so young?

I took over the company in 2021 when I was 23. I’d already been working in the winery for a while, and I was born and raised in this world, so I didn’t step into it completely unprepared. Still, the biggest challenge was carrying the weight of a historic legacy – a winery that is almost 145 years old. The name Pio Cesare carries a certain expectation around the world, and stepping into that with my youth made it even more demanding. It still is, even though only four years have passed. It feels like both a moment and a lifetime.

You’ve described tradition as a starting point rather than a constraint. How are you honoring Pio Cesare’s heritage while keeping the brand relevant today?

My goal has been to act as an ambassador for this long heritage, but in a way that speaks to the present. I’ve worked to communicate the innovative, youthful, fresh side of our winery while honoring its history. Yes, we were founded in 1881, but we are fully alive in 2025 and looking to the future. I’ve been able to do this thanks to our incredibly solid team in the vineyards, the cellar, and the office –  they allow us to produce wines of great quality that remain rooted in tradition but feel contemporary, accessible, and appealing also to younger drinkers.

Climate change is a critical issue in viticulture. How is it affecting your work in the Langhe, and how are you adapting?

We’re now harvesting almost a month or more earlier than 15–20 years ago, which brings challenges – especially since irrigation is forbidden in our appellations, and water scarcity is real. But at the same time, we are now achieving ripeness that is more complete, slower, and more balanced. This allows us, particularly with Nebbiolo, to pick when the fruit has fully expressed itself. In the cellar, this has enabled us to shorten oak aging for wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, while extending bottle aging. As a result, our wines are more approachable when young, yet they still maintain the longevity and aging potential embedded in Nebbiolo’s DNA. This shift has helped younger or less experienced consumers connect more easily with our wines.

Given how regulated Barolo and Barbaresco are, where do you see space for innovation at Pio Cesare?

Innovation is more difficult in denominations with very strict rules, but we’ve found exciting evolution in white wines. Chardonnay has become something of a family grape for us – my father was among the first in Piemonte and Italy to plant it in the late 1970s. Personally, I’m very passionate about whites, and we are increasingly working to produce white wines with real aging potential. Next year, we will release a Timorasso, an indigenous white grape from our area that was nearly forgotten and has recently been rediscovered. We are also expanding our historical cellar in Alba to create a dedicated space for whites, which marks an important new chapter for us.

Piemonte is globally known for red wines, but you seem very passionate about whites. Why do you see potential there?

There’s great potential in Piemonte’s whites, not only Timorasso but also Arneis, Gavi, and international grapes like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, which have now become deeply expressive of our terroir after decades of cultivation. In many ways, this is another way of reinterpreting tradition, by revisiting lesser-known native varieties and elevating whites to the same status as the great reds of the Langhe.

As a young woman leading a major winery in what is often seen as a male-dominated field, how have you experienced the industry?

I genuinely believe wine can serve as an example of female leadership and inclusivity. There are many women in prominent roles today, and I’ve always felt supported by colleagues, collaborators, importers, and clients. Personally, I have never perceived my gender as a major obstacle, perhaps being young has been more of a challenge because experience takes time. But I’ve been lucky; my father introduced me early on to our network, and I’ve always been welcomed. That said, there is still progress to be made, and continued recognition for women in all roles – including sommeliers, who are often the first ambassadors of our wines – is key. It’s encouraging to see many young women entering the field and being awarded for their work, which reflects a wider cultural shift.

“My goal has been to act as an ambassador for this long heritage, but in a way that speaks to the present”

How are you balancing Pio Cesare’s historic identity with modern communication and emerging markets?

When I began taking on more responsibility, we realized communication needed to evolve. My father, being very traditional and reserved – a true Piemontese – wasn’t naturally inclined to put himself or the brand in the spotlight. Together, we decided to collaborate with a PR agency for the first time in 140 years, which helped us express our identity, our work, and future projects more clearly. I currently oversee our social media myself, though this is something we will structure more over time. We now export to 50–55 countries, with relatively small production across many labels, so each market is important. Alongside established regions, we’re growing in newer ones like France, South Africa, Kenya, and emerging smaller European markets.

Are there any upcoming developments at the winery you’re especially excited about?

Right now, the biggest project is the expansion of our historic cellar, which should be completed between December this year and June next year. It includes reorganizing our bottling and logistics areas, extended bottle-aging space, and a dedicated white wine area equipped with modern, sustainable technology such as solar panels and energy reuse systems. This will allow us to work more efficiently, innovatively, and responsibly.

Finally, do you have a personal favorite among your wines?

If I had to choose one, it would be the Barbaresco Il Bricco, a single-vineyard wine from the Bricco di Treiso. There’s a very personal reason: at the top of the hill is a family home where I spent every summer as a child and experienced harvests from an early age. Stylistically, it also defies expectations. While Barbaresco is often seen as more delicate than Barolo, Il Bricco has incredible character and power, yet remains elegant and refined. I often say it represents the women of the Langhe – strong, resilient, skilled and sensitive. It’s a wine that always surprises.

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