ISSIMO x Women in Wine: Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Donatella Cinelli Colombini is a pioneering force in Italian winemaking. She’s dedicated her career to raising quality and innovation in the industry and, most importantly, encouraging other women to embrace it, too.

The wine producer has done so by founding Casato Prime Donne, Italy’s first winery staffed entirely by women, which over the years has redefined tradition while honouring the rich heritage of Tuscan viticulture.

Her deep respect for Sangiovese grapes and commitment to sustainable practices have positioned her Brunello di Montalcino among the most esteemed wines in the world, and helped her make all the other bottles of her estate truly excellent. But she has also played a vital role in promoting enotourism in Italy, both with her project Cantine Aperte and her beautiful Fattorie del Colle, a hospitality haven that offers immersive, cultural experiences centred around wine and farm life.

Keen to know more? Here, the formidable Cinelli Colombini tells us about her work, vision, and wines.

You took the reins of your family winery in 1998. Did you always know you would work in wine?

No, as a young woman, I wanted to be an art historian. I specialised in minor arts, particularly in medieval Sienese goldsmithing. Doing research is a wonderful job because it allows you to compete with scholars from around the world and introduces you to incredible places and people.

The same year you took over, you changed the name of the estate from Casato to Casato Prime Donne, and went on to establish what is still the only Italian wine estate entirely managed by women in Italy – a symbol of the evolution of women's roles in the industry. Can you tell us how it came to life? Was it always your intention to have an all-female team?

When my mother gave me the Casato estate in Montalcino, it was little more than a ruin in need of rebuilding, surrounded by old vineyards. The required investments were enormous, and to help me, my mother also gave me some Brunello wine still aging in barrels – small quantities from four vintages that required daily care but were crucial for me because they allowed me to start selling under my own brand.

I needed a cellar master, so I inquired at the Ricasoli Institute in Siena. When I asked, ‘Is there a skilled eno-technician available for hire?’ I was told no. However, when I specified that I would be happy to hire a female student, the response changed: ‘There are as many of those as you want because the good wineries don’t want them.’

That moment revealed to me a form of discrimination so ancient, widespread, and “normal” that even I had failed to see it. This realisation led to the creation of Prime Donne, a project consisting of a winery staffed entirely by women, a Brunello designed with female consumers in mind, and an award recognising individuals who exemplify a new, modern female role in society and the workplace.

Tell us about your other estate, Fattoria del Colle.

Fattoria del Colle is like a small village, built in 1592 by my ancestors. Most of them were Protestants, which likely contributed to the family’s downfall. The estate was repurchased in 1919 by my great-grandfather Livio Socini, almost by chance.

Today, the old farmers’ houses have been transformed into apartments, villas, and guest rooms. The estate features a restaurant, a banquet hall, a cooking school, a wellness area, three swimming pools, and four parks. Naturally, there is also the villa, a chapel, a winery (which is also run by women), and surrounding vineyards and olive groves totaling 336 hectares. Additionally, there are five truffle reserves where white truffles grow.

What has been one of the most rewarding moments of your career?

Presenting my Brunello at Wine Spectator’s Wine Experience. Sharing my story and my wine in front of 1,000 people made my legs tremble – especially since among them were some of the world’s most influential opinion leaders.

What aspects of your job do you enjoy the most?

I love paving new paths for the future. I did so by founding Cantine Aperte and promoting wine tourism in Italy. Then, by introducing urban trekking, which reshaped tourism itineraries in art cities. Finally, under my leadership, Le Donne del Vino became the largest and most organised association of women in the global wine industry.

My latest challenge is with extra virgin olive oil. I want to bring it back to century-old terracotta jars. We haven’t solved all the practical challenges yet, but we are confident that this project will give Trequanda’s olive oil a distinctive character, help preserve historic olive groves, and create new opportunities for small local farmers.

How has Casato Prime Donne evolved over the years, and how has Donatella Cinelli Colombini changed as a brand?

Do you have a favorite wine? Why?

The flagship of our estate is undoubtedly Brunello “Prime Donne,” crafted by women and selected by a panel of four internationally renowned female tasters. It’s almost a symbol of female-driven winemaking.

However, the wine closest to my heart is Cenerentola, a DOC Orcia. This is a relatively new designation, born in 2000, between the Brunello and Vino Nobile regions, two “stepsisters” far wealthier than the young Orcia DOC. To produce Cenerentola, we revived an ancient, nearly extinct grape variety called Foglia Tonda, which, thanks to our efforts, has been given a second life. Today, Cenerentola has reached 93/100 in international wine press ratings and is achieving growing commercial success. People love the wine, but also the bold challenge behind it: a young DOC taking on the global market and resurrecting an indigenous grape.

What makes a wine truly memorable?

Its exceptionality – a combination of intrinsic quality, rarity, and prestige, combined with an extraordinary moment in which it is consumed.

For example, a great wine created in a limited edition for a couple’s wedding toast becomes a memorable wine, not just because of its excellence, but because of the significance of the moment.