At Mezzatorre, however, there is no need to organise the entire holiday around a race schedule. Mornings might begin with a swim beneath the hotel’s distinctive watchtower or breakfast overlooking the water. There are thermal pools to disappear into, shady corners for reading and lunches that have a habit of stretching well into the afternoon. Ischia itself provides plenty of reasons to leave the hotel too, from little coastal towns and beaches to gardens, vineyards and restaurants worth crossing the island for.