Lunch began as any good sagra should: communal tables, generous portions, the kind of unhurried conviviality that makes you forget you had somewhere to be. The artichoke appeared in every form imaginable, paired – naturally – with Cynar, the bittersweet liqueur made from 13 herbs and plants with the artichoke at its heart. A Cynar Spritz in hand, the afternoon unfolded at its own pace.