- BY ISSIMO
- January 25, 2024
“In fair Verona, where we lay our scene…” Doesn’t that opening line sound familiar? One minute we’re young adults studying Romeo and Juliet in school, and the next, we’re planning our itineraries for a romantic weekend in the city where literature’s most famous love story is set.
Fear not, lovers, our Verona travel guide isn’t solely based on all things Shakespeare and tradition…although, it’s virtually impossible not to be swept up in the ancient historical charms and pure romance of this storied northern city in northern Italy, which lies in the region of Veneto. Cape – check. Hat – check. A little something sweet to snack on between sights – check. We hope you’re all rugged up, loved up, and ready to explore Verona with us!
Getting there
Arriving in Verona from Milan is effortless, especially if you’re taking the train (which we suggest!). The Milan-Verona train journey is only about 1 hour and 10 minutes, so you can easily visit the city for a day trip on the weekend, or even better, mid-week when there are less people around. When you reach ‘Verona Porta Nuova’ station, you have arrived.
Many of Verona’s ‘gems’ – both the popular and the lesser-known secrets – are located within walking distance from the city’s historic centro storico, so making your way around on foot is the best way to immerse yourself in Verona’s enchanting atmosphere and sights.
Often referred to as northern Italy’s answer to the Colosseum, the Arena di Verona is an incredible Roman amphitheatre located in Piazza Brá, which was built in 1st century AD and remains one of the most well-preserved architectural feats of its time. Whether you visit to see a concert or simply take a tour with a local, this former home of gladiator fights and processions in the days of the Roman Empire is a must! Don’t confuse this site with the Teatro Romano, another ancient Roman theatre that offers a breathtaking setting for a night of opera or music under the stars.
We promised we wouldn’t harp on about Romeo and Juliet, but honestly, this love story and its various iconic settings around the city are part of Verona’s soul. We suggest arriving early to Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s House) in Via Capello for the best chance of experiencing the true enhancement of this poetic destination before the crowds arrive. Take your time and indulge in a few romantic moments on Juliet’s balcony, which, it is said, was not part of the house’s original structure, but made from a 17th century sarcophagus.
While you’re at it, you might as well get truly swept up in the moment and touch the right breast of Juliet’s statue – created in 1969 by the sculptor Nereo Costantin. This gesture is said to bring good luck in finding true love! But it’s not all about Juliet – it’s only fair to visit the Casa di Romeo too (Romeo’s house). This imposing medieval palace in the city’s centre (Via Arche Scaligere) was home to the Montecchi family until the early 14th century, an important Veronese Ghibelline family on whom Shakespeare based his Montague clan.
Whether you’re exploring its quaint shops and market stalls by day, or sipping on a spritz at night, soak up the atmosphere of Verona’s buzzing Piazza delle Erbe in the heart of the city. Once a forum for spice trading during the Roman Empire, this piazza is also home to the resplendent Madonna Verona fountain, which is viewed as a personification of the city itself. Keep walking north towards the Adige River that runs through the city, and you’ll reach the arched Roman Ponte Pietra bridge, a glorious spot to take in some fresh air and snap a few scenic shots when the sun is shining.
If Italy’s castles and churches spark your curiosities, Verona’s Castelvecchio will give you a taste of striking Gothic architecture from the Middle Ages, with its Castelvecchio Museum housing sculptural treasures from Verona’s Romanesque period. While you’re at Juliet’s house, be sure to visit the nearby Basilica di San Lorenzo and marvel at its two huge round staircase towers and upper galleries that are quite unlike any other church in Italy. For the fresco fans, look no further than San Zeno Maggiore, which is brimming with intricate painted frescoes and other artworks that line its walls.
When the sun shines on Verona, it really shines. Ride the cable car (funicolare) from Ponte Pietra up to the hilltop Castel San Pietro, where you’ll breathe in the spectacular panoramic views of the city, and even stay a while to enjoy a romantic sunset. Speaking of natural serenity, Verona’s Giardino Giusti is one of our favourite hideaways in the city, a piece of green paradise lined with regal Italian Cypress trees and manicured green mazes where you can sit with your gelato alla fragola and recharge for a while.
Art and culture buffs could probably spend weeks exploring the secrets of Verona’s museums, galleries and diverse architecture styles that showcase the city’s influential cultural stature and economic prosperity throughout history. Alas, if you only have a day or so up your sleeve, Palazzo Maffei Casa Museo in Via delle Erbe houses an eclectic collection of classical and contemporary artworks by the likes of Giorgio de Chirico, Giacomo Balla and Lucio Fontana. This extraordinary ‘house museum’ is worth seeing for its Baroque architectural grandeur alone! Museo Miniscalchi-Erizzo Museum is another treasured palazzo-turned-museum to see; it’s certainly worth a visit for its decadent interiors and collection of historical paintings, bronzes and porcelain treasures.
FUN FACT
Verona also just happens to be home to the world’s oldest functioning library, Biblioteca Capitolare. Without glass barriers or locked cabinets, you can get right up close to a staggering collection of historical manuscripts and thousands of 16th and 17th-century books, as well as discovering ancient printing tools, ancient musical instruments and more.
After a good few hours packed full of artistic discoveries, take a stroll down Via Mazzini – Verona’s main shopping strip – and enjoy the atmospheric buzz of boutiques, cafes and restaurants. If you remember, try to find the clothing shop that boasts an original ancient Roman mosaic floor, it’s quite a sight indeed!With a second gelato in hand (obviously…) stroll on to Piazza dei Signori where you can sit and admire the statue of Italian poet and writer Dante, as well as marvel at the diverse architectural styles of the buildings which give this public space a very different atmosphere to the nearby Piazza delle Erbe.
And it goes without saying, if you’re in Verona in early February (or anywhere nearby for that matter) an experience of the Verona Carnival’s colour and festivities is an absolute must! Known as the Bacanal del Gnoco, this carnival is one of the oldest in the world, and is said to have its origins in 1405 when the Republic of Venice took over the city. Yes, you guessed it, gnocchi is the symbolic dish of the day, so prepare to feast on plates piled high with homemade gnocchi before donning your mask and heading out into the streets for hours of parades, dancing and festivities.
Did someone say Risotto all’Amarone? How very Veronese! Be sure to try one of the city’s most beloved dishes which combines two staple regional ingredients: a dry red wine known as Amarone della Valpolicella, and a special variety of Vialone Nano rice harvested from plains on the outskirts of the city. Thick, rich and rustic, you’ll find this dish on countless menus across Verona, although the traditional old-fashioned osteria makes the best version! Safe to say, Risotto all’Amarone is the definition of comfort food.
On the topic of rustic osteria, there are a few gems that have been adored by Veronese locals for decades. From photo-lined walls to a cosy ambience that feels like a home, we can’t go past the likes of Osteria Macafame for a plate of traditional beef cheek braised in Amarone that melts in the mouth, or Osteria il Ciottolo and Trattoria al Pompiere for plates of homemade potato gnocchi or fettuccine with duck ragu and a glass or two of local red wine.
For a quick lunch stop, run (don’t walk!) over to La Figaccia or one of the city’s traditional bakeries like Antico Panificio Forti, which has been filling Verona’s centro storico with the aroma of freshly baked goods since 1883. Best to get in before the lunch hour rush though, or you’ll miss out! Also, be sure to try Verona’s famous sweet Fritole, a type of fried doughnut often enriched with grappa in the batter, which are typical of the Veronese Carnival, but of course, made all year round.
Book a table at:
OSTERIA MACAFAME
Via delle Fogge, 6
37121 Verona VR
OSTERIA IL CIOTTOLO
Corso Cavour, 39 c
37121 Verona VR
LA FIGACCIA
Via Daniele Manin 4/a
37122 Verona VR
ANTICO PANIFICIO FORTI
Via Achille Forti 2/a
37121 Verona VR
As one of Italy’s most romantic cities, we quite like the idea of dressing up a little for our rendezvous in Verona! Don’t you? Here are a few special ISSIMO picks that are sure to see you explore, discover and dine in style during your visit.
