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Udine Through Michela Scarello’s Eyes

March 12, 2026

Udine Through Michela Scarello’s Eyes

The co-owner of two‑Michelin‑starred Agli Amici shares the rituals, flavours and day trips that define her Friulian hometown

For Michela Scarello, hospitality is more than a profession: it’s a family inheritance.

At Agli Amici, the restaurant she runs with her brother, chef  Emanuele Scarello, just outside Udine, that inheritance spans more than a century. The story began with their great-great-grandparents, who opened a small grocery and tobacco shop in the village of Godia in 1887, a few minutes north of the city. Over time, that modest shop evolved into a restaurant set on a small square facing the local church.

For Michela and her brother, childhood unfolded here. “It felt completely normal,” Michela recalls. “From morning till night we were surrounded by guests – people dropping by for coffee, a glass of wine, lunch or dinner.”

Her parents ushered in a new era for Agli  Amici. Michela’s mother studied at the Lenôtre Culinary School near Paris, returning determined to modernise the kitchen, refining recipes, introducing seafood and elevating the menu at a time when culinary exchange moved far slower than today. Her father trained as a sommelier, raising the bar for service and wine.

Yet another chapter began when she and her brother took over the family business. The restaurant earned its first Michelin star in 2000, when Michela was 26 and Emanuele 29. “That moment taught us discipline,” she says. “Consistency became everything. When guests arrive expecting something – even something simple – it must always be there.” A second star followed in 2013. 

Today, the Scarellos have taken their philosophy beyond Friuli, with Agli  Amici Rovinj in Croatia, and Agli Amici Dopolavoro inside the JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa on the Isola delle Rose. Still, Udine remains the heart of their story and the soul of their idea of hospitality. 

“Udine may not share Venice or Florence’s fame”she says, “but its beauty lies in its intimacy. It’s a graceful, livable city where daily rituals still define the rhythm of life.”

Here are her favourite places in the city she calls home.

Breakfast at  Mamm

A perfect day begins at Mamm, a small café and pastry shop near the Teatro Nuovo Giovanni da Udine, a large contemporary theatre hosting classical concerts, dance, drama and musicals. It’s the kind of neighbourhood spot locals return to again and again, and makes the best start to the morning. 

“The brioches here are really delicious,” Michela says. “The sort of simple pleasure that turns breakfast into a ritual rather than just a quick coffee.”

Art and Colour at the Tiepolo Museum

From there, you should head to the Museo Diocesano e Gallerie del Tiepolo, home to  around 700 artworks, including Giambattista Tiepolo's eighteenth century frescoes. “They shimmer in shades that seem almost luminous, pale blues softening into dusty pinks across ornate ceilings,” Michela says. “You’re completely captivated by them.”

Photo credits: © Ulderica Da Pozzo

The Ritual of the Tajùt

Late morning brings one of Udine’s most beloved traditions: the tajùt.

In essence it’s simply a glass of wine (or two), but here it carries the weight of habit and conviviality. Locals stop in at small bars for a quick pour, often accompanied by a crostino or small bite, before continuing their day.

“It’s like an aperitivo,” Michela explains, “and a must if you want to experience Udine like a local.” Some of her favourite spots include Al Cappello, Raps and Da Michele, all places where you can find carefully selected wines and a relaxed local crowd.

Photo credits: © Alessandro Castiglioni

An Afternoon Walk to the Castle

Photo credits: © Fabrice Gallina

Later in the day, Michela recommends walking up to Udine Castle, which rises above the city on a massive artificial hill believed to date back to prehistoric times. Built in the 16th century, it is one of Friuli's most emblematic landmarks, and today houses extensive civic museums, including an art gallery.

“The colours you can catch from the castle are incredible, and from the top, the view stretches across the rooftops and piazzas of Udine all the way to the Alps, offering a sense of the city’s calm and human scale,” Michela says. 

Shopping the Local Way

Udine is also a good place to shop slowly.

One of the most distinctive souvenirs is a pair of Friulane, velvet slippers traditionally made with recycled bicycle tyres for the soles and repurposed fabrics for the uppers – a practical design that has become an emblem of Friulian craftsmanship.

For something even more artisanal, Michela points visitors to Arte Viva, a local weaver who produces elegant scarves on a loom.

“They’re really beautiful,” she says, noting the careful workmanship and subtle metallic threads that make the pieces distinctive.

And in the evening? The answer is obvious: dinner at Agli Amici.

What to Taste in Friuli

Prosciutto di San Daniele

Friuli’s cuisine is deeply tied to its landscape, and Michela points to a few local specialties that capture the region’s character.

Perhaps Friuli’s most famous product, this delicately sweet cured ham is produced just north of Udine and considered one of Italy’s finest.

Frico

A comforting dish made with potatoes and cheese, cooked until crisp on the outside while remaining soft at the centre. Rustic, satisfying and unmistakably Friulian.

Gubana

From the nearby Natisone Valleys comes this celebratory cake: a spiral of sweet dough filled with raisins, walnuts and chocolate.
“These are the products a Friulian would bring as a gift when visiting someone,” Michela says.

Day Trips from Udine

Friuli is compact and surprisingly diverse, making Udine an excellent base for exploring the wider region. Here are Michela’s favourite destinations outside of Udine. 

Cividale del Friuli

Photo credits: ©Fabrice Gallina

Just 15 kilometres away, Cividale del Friuli is one of the most historically rich towns in the region. Michela recommends seeing the dramatic Devil’s Bridge spanning the Natisone River, as well as the exquisite Lombard Temple, a jewel of early medieval architecture.

Aquileia

Photo credits: ©Fabrice Gallina

About 30 kilometres from Udine lies Aquileia, once one of the Roman Empire’s most important cities. Its basilica – famous for its extraordinary mosaic floors – has recently opened additional areas to visitors, making it even more rewarding to explore.

Palmanova

Photo credits: ©Fabrice Gallina

For a walk with a difference, head to Palmanova, the remarkable Renaissance fortress city built in the shape of a nine-pointed star. The surrounding bastions are perfect for a scenic stroll.

Venzone

Photo credits: ©Ulderica Da Pozzo

Among Friuli’s most charming villages is Venzone, rebuilt stone by stone after the devastating 1976 earthquake and now listed among Italy’s most beautiful villages.

Gemona del Friuli

Photo credits: ©Fabrice Gallina

Nearby Gemona del Friuli is another town Michela has rediscovered recently.  “It’s small, picturesque and often overlooked by visitors,” she says. 

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