- BY ISSIMO
- July 5, 2023
The Costiera Amalfitana needs little introduction. Running from Punta Campanella to Salerno by way of the iconic Positano, Amalfi and Ravello, this southern stretch of sun, winding roads and terraced towns is Italy’s most famous coastline, and a true delight for the senses. Here the sun shines brighter, the sea sparkles bluer, and the lemons grow bigger than your wildest dreams.
One single road links it all – the Strada Statale 163, or the ‘road of 1,000 bends’ – originally commissioned by King Ferdinand II of Naples and completed in 1852. For some 40 kilometres, it tightly embraces cliffs and narrow valleys, meandering amidst lemon orchards and picturesque towns as it ascends and descends alongside the glimmering sea. The whole thing is a sight to behold – and a must for any Italy aficionado worthy of their name. Not sure where to start? We’ve put together a simple three-day guide to get you started. Take notes and get planning!
DAY 1
Start your adventure in the picturesque town of Amalfi, a charming gem nestled between towering cliffs and azure waters. It’s an easy and super scenic drive from Salerno, and the perfect intro to the mood of the Costiera.
Wander through the narrow cobblestone streets, marvel at the mediaeval architecture, and take a moment to soak in the lively atmosphere before paying a visit to the stunning Duomo, a grand masterpiece that will leave you in awe. Before you do anything else, fuel up on espresso at the Bar Francese on the square outside, then head to lunch.
For the classics, Trattoria da Gemma should be your go-to. An upscale eatery known for its traditional Amalfi Coast dishes and expansive terrace, it’s smart without feeling fussy, and serves excellent food all-around. Try the local specialty, “Scialatielli ai Frutti di Mare,” a heavenly pasta dish with fresh seafood, then ask for the catch of the day, which is always delicious.
In the afternoon, hop on a boat and sail along the coastline to the captivating town of Positano. Prepare to have your breath stolen away by the vibrant houses clinging to the cliffs like a flock of colourful birds, and to fall even harder for the historic centre’s uber charming streets, filled boutiques and art galleries. Don’t forget to treat yourself to a pair of handmade sandals – the whole region is especially known for its leather footwear craft, as artisans like Mario d’Ischia attest.
Still have a little stamina left? Then embark on a boat excursion from the Positano dock to the enchanting Grotta delle Matera, an intriguing cave that awaits your exploration, or the cove of Marina di Crapolla, where ancient Roman villa ruins grace the sandy shores.
Ristorante La Sponda, nestled in the heart of Positano, is your last stop of the day – and a pretty romantic way to wrap things up. The restaurant will pamper your taste buds with a delectable menu of Mediterranean flavours and impeccable service in a setting lit up by hundreds flickering candles, for a truly enchanting atmosphere.
DAY 2
Rise and shine, fellow explorers! Today, we venture to Ravello, the crown jewel of the Amalfi Coast, perched high above the glistening sea. Start your day with a visit to the magnificent Villa Cimbrone, now a hotel, where you’ll be rewarded with sweeping panoramic views that will make your heart skip a beat. Take a moment to inhale the scent of blooming flowers as you bask in the serenity of the gardens, then consider a trip to Villa Rufolo, another grand palazzo in the historic city centre that overlooks the front of the cathedral square (do go into the church, too, if you have time).
You might have worked an appetite by now, and that’s totally fair. Make your way to Trattoria da Cumpa’ Cosimo, a charming family-run restaurant tucked away in Ravello’s quaint streets, and indulge in their heavenly “Linguine al Limone,” a pasta dish infused with the zesty goodness of Amalfi lemons. Pair it with a crisp local wine, and you’ll be in culinary heaven.
For a touch of ancient history, consider an afternoon visit to the fascinating ruins of Pompeii. Walk the same streets that thrived with life centuries ago, frozen in time by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, marvel at the well-preserved frescoes and houses, and imagine the stories that unfolded within those walls.
Back in the car, head back to Amalfi for dinner at Il Refettorio, an exquisite restaurant set in a former monastery. Let the flavours of their seafood delicacies tantalise your taste buds, all while enjoying the warm Mediterranean breeze and the mesmerising view of the Amalfi Bay.
DAY 3
On your third and last day, escape to the idyllic coastal village of Maiori, known for its stunning sandy beach. Bask in the warm Italian sun, take a dip in the crystal-clear waters, and relish the feeling of the grains between your toes. If you’re feeling adventurous, rent a kayak or a paddleboard to explore the captivating coastline from a different perspective – though we completely understand if you just want to nap and read a book instead.
After a morning of frolicking in the sun, get your belly full at Ristorante Torre Normanna, a charming seaside eatery that serves up delicious traditional dishes. Treat yourself to some fresh seafood risotto or a mouthwatering Caprese salad, while savouring the gentle sea breeze.
As the day draws to a close, make your way back to Positano for a truly unforgettable experience: Climbing up to the picturesque Church of Santa Maria Assunta, to witness one of nature’s most spectacular shows – the glorious sunset over the Amalfi Coast.
Watch the vibrant hues of pink, orange, and gold paint the sky while the soft melodies of serenading musicians fill the air and consider a permanent move to this slice of paradise.
Time for dinner!
To end your journey on a high note, book a table at Da Adolfo, a charming beachside restaurant accessible only by boat. Feast on their famous grilled fish, accompanied by fresh salads and local wine. The casual and relaxed atmosphere will make you feel like part of the extended Italian family.
