- BY ISSIMO
- February 14, 2024
“Nel blu dipinto di blu/ Felice di stare lassù…” We’ve all sang those Domenico Modugno refrains at the top of our lungs before, right? This classic Italian hit won the Sanremo Music Festival 1958, and, come to think of it, sounds just like a romantic dedication to the idyllic Ligurian coastal city itself!
This song contest extravaganza has well and truly put Sanremo on the world map for more than just music fans. But beyond the event and its hype, this gem on the Riviera dei Fiori (the Flower Riviera in Liguria) puts on a show with its diverse mix of architecture, history, culinary specialties and outdoor experiences, making it a perfect weekend escape. Little wonder Sanremo was a popular (but relatively secret) holiday destination and ‘health retreat’ for European nobility throughout history!
Getting there
We suggest taking the train from Genova to Sanremo. The journey is less than two hours, and you’ll be treated to cinematic views of the Italian Riviera as you head west along the Ligurian coastline towards France. Stops along the way include the charming coastal towns of Varazze, Savona, Alassio and Imperia.
From ancient churches and an Art-Nouveau-style Casino, to hilltop villas echoing the decadent design features of the ‘Belle Époque’ period, Sanremo’s architecture reflects the city’s rich history and the cultural influence of its residents over the centuries. In the early part of the 20th century, European nobility from France, Russia and other European cities would flock to this ‘resort city’ for respite during the winter months, leaving a legacy that is still seen today in Sanremo’s buildings, monuments and other landmarks.
Wander down Sanremo’s flower-lined promenade – Passeggiata Impreatrice (Empress Walk, named after Tsarina Maria Aleksandrovna who spent a winter in the city) and you’ll likely pass by the Casino di Sanremo, which was designed by French architect Eugène Ferret and built in 1905. With its ornate Art Nouveau architecture, it reminds us of a mini version of the famous grand Casino in nearby Monte-Carlo!
The medieval Cathedral of San Siro is the city’s oldest religious building (it was built around 800 AD) and is worth seeing for its intriguing collection of artworks and sculptures. Located up the hill in La Pigna (Sanremo’s historical old town centre) Santuario Madonna della Costa boasts a heavenly Baroque facade, representing yet another historical and architectural period.
You simply can’t go to Sanremo and not visit the storied Ariston Theatre (Teatro Ariston), which has been home to the world-famous singing contest since 1977. Take a few snaps beneath the theatre’s iconic 60s-style neon sign, and pretend you’re Mina or Tony Renis during the golden age of the Festival della Canzone Italiana. While your camera is handy, head next door to witness the majestic grandeur of Borea d’Olmo Palace. This Renaissance-style residence was home to one of the region’s most prestigious families, and is now open to the public with its own museum of archaeological artefacts and vaults adorned with intricate frescoes by Genovese painter Giovanni Battista Merano.
SANREMO IN BLOOM
If you visit Sanremo at the end of March, you’ll experience the city ‘in bloom’ during a schedule of unforgettable flower parades and festivals that remind us exactly why it’s the heart of the Riviera dei Fiori (Flower Riviera). The main event, Corso Fiorito, attracts tens of thousands of visitors, and enlivens the city in a floral fantasy of colour, creativity and joy.
After a morning strolling Sanremo’s promenade, head over to the nearby Villa Nobel and explore this exotice piece of paradise that was a former home and laboratory of Swedish scientist Alfred Nobel (as in, Nobel Prize!). Nobel was another famous international figure who frequented Sanremo as a ‘health retreat,’ and ended up spending his final years there. It’s worth a visit for its lavish grounds and gardens alone. Speaking of villas, Villa Ormond is another lush haven located directly behind, an ideal spot to sit and enjoy a gelato under the shade of towering palm trees.
It’s a decent walk uphill from the promenade district to Sanremo’s old city walls, but well worth it when you discover La Pigna. Sanremo’s enchanting medieval settlement seems like a part of the city that has been frozen in time, with untouched winding streets, piazzas, and secret laneways converging uphill in a ‘Pinecone’ type of formation, hence the district’s name.
If you prefer to pick up the pace, rent a bike and explore some of Italy’s most picturesque cycling routes along the Riviera dei Fiori. These routes can take you from one end of Sanremo’s coastline to the other, and even well beyond to the nearby historical towns of Ospedaletti, Arma di Taggia, Rive Ligure and San Lorenzo al Mare. Time for a swim? Sanremo has several walkable sandy beaches and beach clubs that are perfect spots for the whole family to enjoy a dip including Bagni Lido Foce, Tre Ponti, Boca Beach and Spiaggia Italo Calvino.
Lovers of Ligurian cuisine’s bold flavour combinations can expect to discover a whole lot more of them here in Sanremo. Local ‘Sanremesi’ specialties include Sardenaira (a focaccia-pizza hybrid with a tomato base, anchovies, olives and oregano), Farinata (a crepe made from chickpea flour), Buridda (fish stew simmered in a rich tomato sauce) and Torta verde (a savoury ‘green cake’ unique to Sanremo made from rice and different types of vegetables). And, yes, Sanremo means seafood in abundance.
For an authentic, ‘no frills’ breakfast, mid-morning snack or even a quick lunch between sights, we suggest Panifico dei Mattei or Pasta Madre where you’re guaranteed to eat like a local.
When you have a little more time on your hands and you’re looking for a lunch or dinner spot near Sanremo’s lungomare, you can’t go past Trattoria da Tino and Gambero Rosso Ristorante Di Perato Francesco. For something a little more fancy, treat yourself to a sunset aperitivo followed by dinner at Gilda or Ristorante Byblos.
Whether you’re heading to idyllic Sanremo to sing your heart out, or to reawaken your senses during a floral festa, don’t forget to pack these ISSIMO essentials for a heavenly few days in the Riviera dei Fiori!
