- BY ISSIMO
- January 18, 2024
Who feels like fish? On today’s specials menu we have…La Spezia! This charming port city is nestled between towering cliffs and the pristine Ligurian Sea, located about halfway between Genova and Pisa. It’s a hidden gem often overlooked by bustling crowds who flock to its famous neighbours Portofino and the Cinque Terre. But those who decide to stay a while in La Spezia are quickly charmed by its cultural curiosities, historical gems and its heavenly fish dishes, all set against picture-book seascapes less frequented by tourists.
Did we mention La Spezia is also the birth city of design legend Gaetano Pesce? Now that we think about it, all those exuberant colours and fish-inspired designs might just be a tribute to his home city, which is an enchanting escape both for Ligurian locals and for discerning travellers. Don’t skip La Spezia, dive in head first!
The harbour’s heartbeat
If in doubt, find us at La Spezia’s main harbour. This vast port captures all the picturesque charm of the Italian Riviera, an inviting waterfront promenade lined with shops, cafes and seaside osteria including Osteria Da Bartali and Osteria La Carabaccia. Consider it compulsory to devour plate-fulls of freshly-caught local cuisine such as fried anchovies and mussels served alla Marinara (in a simple tomato sauce), or even better, alla Spezzina (stuffed with Parmigiano cheese, garlic, parsley and breadcrumbs), in true La Spezia style.
Whether you’re a culture buff or not, a visit to the Gulf of Poets will probably stir something in your soul with its breathtaking scenery alone. Stretching between the villages of Portovenere and Lerici, this vast bay has captivated artists, writers and poets for centuries, including the likes of Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley, David Herbet Lawrence and Virginia Woolf. On a side note, some art historians believe that the bay depicted by Renaissance artist Sandro Botticelli in the background of his painting The Birth of Venus is actually, you guessed it, the Gulf of Poets (formerly known as the Gulf of La Spezia). It’s said that the artist met his muse Simonetta Vespucci when visiting the nearby village of Fezzano also located on the Gulf, and was consequently infatuated by the destination’s beauty.
A Ligurian time machine
Immerse yourself in a treasure trove of regional Ligurian customs and traditions by venturing to La Spezia’s lesser known cultural gems like the Ethnographic Museum. Here you’ll discover exhibits such as handcrafted costumes and garments from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as ceremonial artefacts, objects and artworks that enliven the rich history of the city and the region more generally.
A visit to the Amedeo Lia Museum located in the former convent of St. Francis of Paola is also a must. Boasting an impressive collection of over one thousand works spanning classical, medieval and Renaissance periods, right up to contemporary works, this intimate museum is tucked away from the crowds and is a sanctuary for those seeking new discoveries from Italy’s artistic heritage.
Like most cities in Italy, La Spezia’s centro storico (town centre) is in an open-air museum. As you wander through its narrow streets leading away from the port, keep an eye out for hidden frescoes gracing the upper façades of buildings and tower-houses. Often overlooked, these murals depict symbolic stories from bygone eras, offering a glimpse into the city’s historical and cultural heart. How we love discovering a secret ‘gallery’ around every street corner!
Historical hideouts and simple pleasures
When it comes time for a new vista, venture up into the hills of La Spezia to discover more ancient sites that have witnessed the city’s history and evolution. Perched on a hilltop with sweeping panoramic views, Castello San Giorgio is a mighty stone fortress built in 1262 which still preserves a portion of its watchtower. The castle is also home to La Spezia’s Archaeological Museum, where you’ll marvel at ancient objects dating back to the Neolithic, Bronze and Iron ages.
Only a short boat trip from La Spezia’s main port, the small village of Portovenere boasts a lesser-known architectural spectacle known as the Palazzata a Mare; a collection of typically Ligurian pastel tower-houses that reminds us of a Gaetano Pesce creation. Admire the Palazzata’s cheerful charm from the boat first, then lose yourself in its maze of arches and alleyways that form a secluded enclave along the waterfront.
You don’t even need to set foot on a boat or anywhere near a castle to enjoy an afternoon in La Spezia. Grab yourself a slice of focaccia, and grab a secret spot in the city’s glorious Giardini Pubblici (public gardens) where you’ll enjoy your lunch under the shade of ancient trees.
Often overshadowed by its more prominent neighbours, La Spezia is an enchanting Ligurian retreat boasting its own charms. History, geography and culture seamlessly intertwine across its land and seascapes, which are brimming with stories and discoveries that still intrigue locals across the region. Be sure to bring your appetite for a fish dish or three!
