- BY ISSIMO
- January 25, 2024
For connoisseurs of all things artisanal Italy, Rome-based high jewellery brand Percossi Papi needs no introduction. Under the direction of design visionary Diego Percossi Papi, each creation is a masterpiece of meticulously sourced materials, intricate craftsmanship and a rich tapestry of design inspiration spanning history, art, culture and beyond.
Whether its a pair of jewel-encrusted earrings inspired Rome’s architectural marvels, or a necklace that shimmers with precious stones hand-picked from the Aegean Sea, every Percossi Papi creation tells a unique story through a shape, colour and materials that immerse the wearer in an experience far beyond high jewellery.
ISSIMO X Percossi Papi Cuore Sacro Pendant
ISSIMO recently visited Percossi Papi’s heavenly Rome atelier located on Via di Sant’ Eustachio, right near the Pantheon. This treasure trove in the heart of the city is located in a spot that has inspired Diego ever since he opened the atelier in 1968. While we love any opportunity to visit Diego, his wife Maria Teresa, and their children who also work for the brand, we had a special reason for this particular ‘heart-to-heart’. What might that be? …To have a first glimpse of our new ISSIMO x Percossi Papi Cuore Sacro pendant, just in time for Valentine’s Day, of course!
We could hardly contain our excitement at the first sight of this regal design, which features a setting of blood-red garnets, blue topazes and 24kt gold plating that gives it a mesmerising, ethereal glow. Crowned with a wreath of leaves and thorns, the design reflects the precious Sacred Heart religious votive that is often observed in south Italy, a symbolic design representing love and passion. Seen it before? Of course you have! Diego created a collection in the 90s called Ex Voto, and his daughter, Valeria, has since reinterpreted key elements of the original design into a pair of striking hand-crafted Cuore Sacro earrings for ISSIMO that are also fit for a queen. And now, a pendant!
Original Diego Percossi Papi’s sketch.
Ex Voto Collection 1995
“The inspiration for this pendant comes from research into popular Italian traditions and iconography. Religious iconography has always been one of the main legacies of our culture, especially in the southern regions such as Campania and Sicily. Naples, in particular, is an enduring source of inspiration, which is why the first Cuore Sacro (Sacred Heart) votive was dedicated to Mezzatorre Hotel in Ischia,” Diego explained.
“This is part of our design method for creating pieces like this new pendant. Beyond the emotional layer of the design, there is an in-depth analysis, a historical research into the roots of our culture.
The ex-voto is a symbol that dates back to the period 1700 to 1940, approximately. The Percossi Papi reworking of this symbol is the result of our family’s research and our expression of what feels closest to our heart,” he said.
Birds, Baroque and beyond…
‘The Eternal City’ is an enduring and deeply personal source of inspiration in Diego’s design process. From the city’s ancient ruins, to its classical monuments and architecture, to Renaissance and Baroque masterpieces gracing the halls of his favourite museums, many of Diego’s creations and collections are a tribute to Rome’s artistic and historical soul. In particular, he notes the 17th century ‘Rome of Bernini and Borromini’ as being of particular significance to his design inspiration, a period when these visionary artists and sculptors influenced the development of the Baroque style:
“The Baroque period is key to my design inspiration, and it was part of people’s everyday consciousness in the Rome of Bernini and Borromini. In my work, I want to adopt some Baroque characteristics of movement, symmetry and asymmetry. It’s a style that I feel very close to,” says Diego, who also has a background in classical studies and architecture.
Diego also masterfully balances his elaborate, Baroque-inspired designs with a sense of fun and sometimes even a hint of the unexpected. Whether it’s unusual colour combinations of precious stones, or the use of exaggerated shapes and silhouettes, he never underestimates the power of fun in creating designs that capture people’s emotions and sense of imagination. Designing the Pelican for his first collaboration with ISSIMO, he says, was an “extremely fun experience” that allowed him to explore a woman’s sense of humour and playful side.
The Percossi Papi universe
As mentioned, it’s not the first collaboration we’ve had the pleasure of working on with this internationally regarded Italian jewellery designer, who has seen his immaculate creations showcased everywhere from Triennale Milano, and Vicenza’s Museo del Gioiello, to blockbuster Hollywood films such as Murder on the Orient Express (2017) and Elizabeth: The Golden Age (2007), as worn by leading actress Cate Blanchett. Diego’s ability to evoke an aura, to capture a moment, or to tell a story through his designs means he creates an instant emotional connection with those who engage with his creations, which, in itself, is the mark of a true artist. We’ll never forget the adoring responses we received when we first launched our first ISSIMO x Percossi Papi Pellicano earrings!
“I try to capture the emotions of my clients. Every client has a desire, something particular that represents them, and that aligns with their cultural and historical interpretations. And therefore, my clients feel that the object I design is part of them, and truly represents who they are,” Diego reflects.
Wear it your way
The magic of every Percossi Papi design is that they take on a unique meaning for every wearer, based on our own style and personality. While Diego says there’s no right or wrong way to wear the jewels, he believes in making them stand out through a sense of contrast.
“An extremely elaborate jewel may be worn with something very simple, and vice versa. A jewel like the Cuore Sacro pendant, for example, can be worn ‘everyday’ with a loose t-shirt and a pair of jeans. Wearing a sacred symbol is essentially linked to holidays or special festive days where women might typically wear their most beautiful outfits. Instead, I suggest the opposite, wearing a rich, baroque jewel for ‘everyday’, in contrast with a very simple outfit,” says Diego.
We’re taking Diego’s advice when he says we don’t need a special occasion to revel in the colour, stories and decadence of a Percossi Papi masterpiece. In fact, we’ve found that wearing our new Cuore Sacro pendant around town makes every day of the week feel a little (or a lot) more special. Don’t just give the gift of jewellery this Valentine’s Day, give the gift of art!
Which ISSIMO x Percossi Papi jewels capture your heart?
