- BY ISSIMO
- July 21, 2023
Small but mighty, Procida is a gem. The island in the Gulf of Naples is lesser-known than glitzy Capri and our beloved Ischia, but packs equal amounts of charm, great beaches, and all-around Mediterranean vibes. Best of it all, it’s just a 15- to 30-minute ferry ride away from Ischia, meaning that if you’re staying at Mezzatorre, you can totally pencil in a visit.
You’ll be rewarded with postcard-perfect colourful houses, one of the most picturesque marinas you’ll ever stumble upon, and delicious seafood.
Here’s a comprehensive guide to help you make the most of your visit.
GETTING IN
Regular ferries and hydrofoils depart to Procida from Naples daily and almost hourly, before continuing to Ischia. The same goes from Ischia, making the little island an ideal day trip destination.
Arriving at the port, start walking up through Via Principe Umberto to Piazza dei Martiri, where the imposing church of Santa Maria delle Grazie awaits. Overlooking Marina Corricella, Procida’s oldest borgo, it was built in 1679 at the behest of Archbishop Innico Caracciolo, on a pre-existing chapel dedicated to the worship of the Madonna delle Grazie.
The square it is found in, formerly called Semmarezio, offers one of the most evocative views in all of Italy: The pastel yellow walls of the church contrast with the shades of blue of the sea and sky, creating a unique effect of earthy tones and pristine blues.
Snap some photos, admire the Gulf of Naples, then climb up to Terra Murata, the old historic city centre. Here, consider a visit to the 16th century Palazzo D’Avalos, which, throughout its long history, has served both as a palace and a prison. The guided tour lasts about an hour and allows you to explore the courtyard, guardhouse, the single cell building and the guard pavilion among others, and it’s a good way to spend the last part of your morning.
When it’s time for lunch, make your way to Marina Corricella and prepare to be wowed. A colourful amphitheatre of pastel houses, fishing boats, and quaint waterfront restaurants, this is Procida’s most iconic spot, and a true jewel. Stroll along it, then sit down for a lunch of fresh fish and white wine. Welcome to paradise in island form.
Appetite sated, it’s time to hit the beach – and Procida has no shortage of those.
Beachgoers will love Procida’s different sandy stretches. For crystal-clear waters and a serene atmosphere, try the Spiaggia del Postino (Postino Beach), which was made famous by the eponymous Italian film.
Want more of a ‘wild’ experience? Then Spiaggia della Chiaia is for you. One of the most central beaches on the island, it is also one of the least travelled, due to the fact it can’t be reached by conventional means of transportation (you have to either go down 180 steps or take a taxi boat to get to it). That makes it a pretty incredible spot to while away a few hours, not to mention one of the most panoramic: From the beach one can in fact admire the evocative and beautiful castle of Terra Murata and the Corricella.
Chiaiolella beach, also called “Ciracciello” by the locals, has the longest shoreline, and it’s probably the busiest among Procida’s beaches. The sand here is dark and volcanic, which makes the contrast with the sea even more incredible, while the surrounding rocky and verdant scenery contributes to creating the atmosphere of a true Mediterranean paradise.
Two imposing stacks of tuff separate Chiaiolella from Ciraccio, which features a long expanse of pale sand and a gradually descending seabed. Less frequented and more secluded than its neighbour, it’s ideal for sunbathers, as it’s exposed to the sun all day long.
Lastly, don’t overlook the small Spiaggia della Lingua, near the port. Rather than dark or golden sand, it’s characterised by pebbles and well-polished stones, as well as deep blue waters that get deep pretty quickly. Also, it overlooks the promontory of Monte di Procida, on the mainland, making it one of the most appreciated beaches in Procida.
Looking to take the whole island in? Then book yourself a boat tour of the island. You’ll get to see hidden coves and sea caves, and really admire Procida in all its unspoilt beauty.
With delectable dishes of freshly caught fish and shellfish, La Lampara in Marina Corricella is a popular choice for seafood lovers. Try their famous spaghetti with seafood (spaghetti allo scoglio) with a perfectly chilled glass of wine. Perfection.
Traditional cuisine can be found at Da Mariano in Chiaolella, which serves up classics like rabbit cacciatore and lemon-flavoured desserts, while Ristorante Caracalè, set in a stunning location overlooking the sea, offers a mix of seafood and Mediterranean cuisine, prepared with locally sourced ingredients. Their terrace is perfect for a romantic sunset dinner.
For dessert, try Chiaro di Luna, an artisanal gelateria whose offerings include some unique local creations and Bar Roma for Procida’s most quintessential pastry: Lingua di Bue. It’s a puff pastry shell with a heart of lemon cream in the shape of a tongue, and an absolute must on the island.
Book a table at:
Ristorante Da Mariano
Via Marina Chiaiolella, 32, 80079 Procida NA
Caracalè
Via Marina di Corricella, 62, 80079 Procida NA
Chiaro di Luna
Via Marina di Corricella, 87, 80079 Procida NA
ISSIMO’s Tips
- Procida is relatively small, so renting a scooter or bike is an excellent way to explore the island independently.
- The best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons of spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) when the weather is pleasant, and the tourist crowds are thinner.
- Cash is still king on the island, so it’s a good idea to carry some euros with you, especially when visiting smaller shops or restaurants.
- Learn a few basic Italian phrases. While some locals may speak English, embracing the local language will enhance your experience and show respect for their culture.
